I had my palm read and it said… what lies in your future is already in your head, you just don’t know it yet. You’ve gotten everything you’ve been searching for, look around you and you’ll see it. You’ll get your palm trees, beach hut and board. You’ll live in the sun with the sand and the ocean, but you’ve got to earn it. If you still want it when the time comes then it will be yours. Stay patient, stay focused and live for today. Your tomorrows will show up at your door when you least expect them to.
Lifted up. Turned around. Pushed through the surface. Slammed to the ground. Everything went numb. Everything was black. Which way is up? How do I get back? Hand over hand. Climbing up the leash. Made it to the board. Finally I can breathe. Another set rolls in. Crashing from the sky. Pinning down my chest. Feel like I could die. Gotta get back up. Climb the leash once more. Light seen at the surface from the ocean floor. Got myself to safety. Made it through the storm. Got back on my board. Paddled out for more.
“…there was purity and there was the dream, and the adventure, and there was the counterculture aspect. It was like shove society, shove the nine to five, shove the rules… we’re just going to follow our hearts, treat each other well, eat well and enjoy the ocean. It was not for money and it wasn’t for fame… that’s what we’re gonna do… purely because that’s what our hearts want to do. That was amazing.” -Jim Banks (quote from the Switch-foot book)
There are surf stars and there are surf stars. Some become great. A few become heroes. Most fade into obscurity. Every now and then, a surfer comes along who transcends the desires, dreams and expectations of others. And his very life becomes a myth. Eddie Aikau is one. Perhaps because he embodies the twin themes — the stoke and the tragedy — of Hawaiians, the people who gave surfing to the world and took so little in return. click for more…